Bens Everest Base Camp Diary

Bens Nepal Diary

(Day 1) 4th November 2011
- Heathrow to Delhi
4.06 – LHR T3
I am feeling unfit, unprepared and generally very nervous! Sitting in Costa LHR T3 probably a ‘Black Forest Hot Chocolate’ was not the best choice!
There is still some time to go before meeting the others then a wait for the plane. I just want to get going now!
I have been carrying the big bag round and it seems rather heavy – poor sherpas?
4.47 – Oops should have been at T4 not T3. Just a train transfer now, shouldn’t be too late.

(Day 2) 5th November 2011
- Delhi to Kathmandu
11.24 - Delhi
Hot and smoggy. limited view of city but looks mainly very run down. Air quality terrible! Waiting for flight to Kathmandu now.
Kathmandu airport is very small and interesting - no problems with immigration – getting the visa sorted was a good idea.
Going through Kathmandu in the bus was a real eye opener. There is widespread poverty, litter lining the streets and the utter chaos.
The hotel is okay, good general facilities but bedroom has mould in bathroom and bedroom ceiling. Beds okay and shower is powerful enough.
I went out for a lovely meal and a few drinks after. There were a surprising number of good places to drink.
We were kicked out of the ‘Fire Club’ by the police at 12:00, so decided enough was enough! Apparently this is standard in Nepal!

(Day 3) 6th November 2011
- Kathmandu Rest Day
City tour – going to the monkey temple then the cremation shrine. A real eye opener. The culture is completely different, very open about the cremation with people mourning and tourists taking photos. The whole city is very run down. Poverty is widespread.
Had the afternoon to ourselves. Looked at some of the knocked off eqt, and the shops in general, not much for tourists, more for trekking. Not really any souvenirs. Have bought William a hat that I will wear on the trek!
Out for another meal tonight.
11:12pm
Just packed for Lukla/trekking. I hope everything is going to be okay. Set the alarm for 4.45am so a nice early start.
The others have bought silly hats too but they have managed to get them embroidered with name and logo – gutted I missed out!
Looking forward to tomorrow I hope it all goes okay!

(Day 4) 7th November 2011
- Kathmandu to Lukla to Phakding
7.26am - at Kathmandu airport waiting for the flight to go. There are others going this morning so hopeful we will get out. Everyone is looking a bit nervous! We are the first flight out as Lukla has been closed for 6 days due to bad weather
9.46am – Arrival in Lukla! All good. Flight much better than expected, twin Otter – good photos from the front of the plane. Lukla is beautiful the mountains do not match the photo! The scenery is fantastic.
Having a cup of lemon tea in our first tea house in Lukla.
4hr trek ahead!
1.09pm - Having lunch at Everest Summite Café
Thadakoshi – 6, Ghat Solukhumber.
First use of the long drop loos all okay!
5.54pm
Resting before dinner in the first tea house, what is much better than expected! We have twin room with Billy again, own private western toilet but no sink! We are in Phakding, which is a decent size village, mainly guest houses and restaurants but pretty. There is also an internet café which is a bit of a surprise.
We did about 3 hrs of trekking today, which was a good warm up!

(Day 5) 8th November 2011
- Phakding to Namche Bazar
7.52 Had a good night sleep – went to bed at 8.45pm. Sleeping bag very toasty and bed okay. Woke up at 3.30 but slept on through.
Great breakfast – porridge, omelette, toast and coffee. Beautiful sunrise over the mountains behind us.
Off now!
12.41 - Have been walking 4hrs, had lunch in Jorsalle.
The scenery has really become impressive. There have been 4 river crossings already, on rope bridges lots of ‘yak attacks’ and plenty of ups and downs.
The scenery is mainly pine forest with sand and stone underfoot. We have been following a river for most of the day with the promise of a massive climb this afternoon.
Lunch in the tea house was hot lemon then fried potatoes and veg; another superb meal. The view was down the river valley over the last river crossing on the highest bridge so far. It is really hot this morning with a clear sky – looks like more this afternoon!
5.22 - Have arrived in Namche Bazar. Fantastic room, well fantastic view anyway. The building is brick anyway so that is a result! Have just booked my shower. It has been a long day but the views have been fantastic and well worth the effort. Have crossed many rope bridges lots of climbing up Namche Hill. It has been a long walk and lots of effort and I am looking forward to the rest acclimatisation day tomorrow!
Having tea and biscuits – perfect!

(Day 6) 9th November 2011
- Acclimatisation Day Namche
8.40 – Rest day in Namche: Up at 7 with a bit of a headache but otherwise a good night sleep. We are going to a view point this morning then on to Namche again for an afternoon soaking up the sun.
Very cold in tea house over night but sleeping bag too warm. Sun out this morning and looking great!
We had an acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar although it was a bit harder than anyone expected. We went up to the military base about 300m higher, had a fantastic view of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Bablan, absolutely fantastic. We then climbed a bit more up to the Panorama hotel about 200m more to 3280m at Khumjung. It was a properly hard walk. I have had a bit of a headache all day and felt a bit rough. Climbing to the top, although breathtaking did not help.
The descent was fast and well needed, lunch at the tea house was much needed as well. It was almost 2pm by the time we got back. Noodles, veg and lemon tea has never been so welcome!
We spent the afternoon relaxing in Namche. This is a shopping paradise with all sorts of equipment for sale.
We stopped for a coffee and apple pie in the Everest Bakery – absolutely fantastic!!
Headache seems to have subsided somewhat which is a relief – but also quite worrying as it means that I need coffee!!
I am back in the Everest Bakery having a super hot chocolate now!
Namche is only tourists and sherpas. There are more tourists though. The only language you hear is English and everyone is only here for one reason – to trek.
It was a relief today that the routes were quieter as it has been a bit of a traffic jam up until now which has detracted some what from the experience.

(Day 7) 10th November 2011 – Thursday
- Nanche to Tengboche
10.20 Have stopped in a fantastic café 2 ½ hrs walk from Namche – in the Tham Shurkulodge in Kyangjum. We have a fantastic view of Ama Dablan. The sun is shining – it is very hot. The track is dusty and busy. The yaks take an amazing load and are constantly passing us.
- Cup of black tea – lovely.
1.02 – Another fantastic half day walk with Everest in and out of view.
Sitting in Thamserku lodge in the valley floor having had a fantastic noodle lunch. Awesome view of the snowy peaks with running river just below.
600m climb to overnight tea house.
11.41 – Have arrived in Tengboche. It is getting colder, the guest houses are less westernised as we get further up.
It was a long slog up to the Tea house but there is a monastery that we are going to get the low down on now, then a visit to it, then the bakery for coffee and cake!
The view of Everest is breathtaking with Lotse and Ama Dablam also well within range.
You can see the whole valley stretching before you.
Tengboche is having a festival for the period we are away, which is a shame as it is quite busy, but none of the benefits.
Having tea in the Tasli Delek tea house.
6.28 – Have just come back from the monetary having seen a Buddhist ceremony – well some anyway. We could not determine what was going on but what an experience. Lots of meditation with more bells cymbals, drums and horns.
The Buddha was lit by candles the monks sat facing the lead all meditating. We sat cross legged on the floor. The decoration in the inner area was very ornate green base painting on the walls and simple red benches.
Dinner was popcorn in mushroom soup followed by an amazing veg curry!

(Day 8) 11th November 2011 – Friday
- Tengbouche to Dingboche
8.13am – Just had porridge and coffee for breakfast and waiting to go at 8.30.
Slept well in the wooden box, sleeping bag very toasty. One pee stop at 12.30ish which was remarkably warm, out of the bag, jacket and trainers on – shame about the smell.
Fantastic view of sun over Everest and Lotse out of the window over frost covered ground.
The sun is shining – another fantastic day – no sign of rain yet!! Lets hope it continues.
2.19 – A very long walk this morning, longer than expected. There are several people struggling with altitude and heat. Even with the cold wind, its hot.
I have just put on a thermal top to keep the sun off.
Had a fantastic Sherpa stew at Sunrise Guest House at about 4050m.
We are deep in the Kumbu valley now, Everest has been in view all day. We are parallel with Ama Dablam.
We still have a fair amount to go this afternoon in terms of length and altitude.
We had a Rememberance Service at 11.00 by a stupa on route. It was very poignant and moving experience and everyone was in a sombre. mood after.
5.36 – Arrived at ’38 steps Tea House’ Dengboche. 4400 in – everyone is feeling the effects of altitude now. It is getting dark and Sam and Claire Sims have gone back to the previous (lunch) tea house due to altitude and fatigue. The scene is fantastic, the sun setting over the valley with the final vestiges of light on the mountains behind us.

(Day 9) 12th November 2011 – Saturday
- Acclimatisation Day – Dingboche
9.02 – A decent night sleep all considered. There are only 10 people well enough to get out of bed this morning , of those handful able to eat anything and go for a walk. There is a large dose of dodgy stomach going round that seems to be knocking people out.
They have taken the decision to spend another 24hrs here in Dingboche due to illness, will be at base camp on Tuesday then tab back at double speed.
The plan for the day is a short walk out of town up a small climb then chill out – go to the bakery etc this afternoon.
3.35 - Back in the tea house having extensively visited Dingboche, it is only a few houses and we are at the top!! We had a good walk up 200 m then down by 11.00. We managed to see all of town in about 10 minutes but decided to stop in the bakery for a cinnamon roll and ginger tea.
The back to the tea house for noodle lunch. Lots of people still down in bed with upset stomachs although getting better. It is now overcast and very very cold. We have just walked back from town and it is around freezing outside.
We have another acclimatisation walk tomorrow so hopefully the cloud will lift and we will get a view.

(Day 10) – 13th November 2011 – Sunday
- Second Acclimatisation Day in Dingboche
10.32 - Feeling okay but have upset stomach from about 5 this morning. Have eaten breakfast – porridge and toast and that is okay for now!
Sitting in the tea house at the moment relaxing. The sun is on my back and is very warm.
(Day 11) – 14th November 2011
- Dingboche to Lobouche
After a very quiet day yesterday recuperating we are desperate to get going.
11.14 – have stopped in Dhuklu and Thukla for lunch a little early but it is the only place on route for lunch. The sun is out but it is still freezing cold.
Feeling better– hurrah!!
4.07 – Lobouche
Have arrived at ‘view xv’ lodge in Lobouche after a grueling climb after lunch. John has already gone down due to altitude. Karen has soldered and bravely and made it here. It is much colder up at this altitude (about 4000m)
We have spent the rest of the afternoon walking next to the glacier that was much more like I was expecting very rocky and grassy
The scenery is more like the Himalayas.
Everyone is feeling the affects of altitude to some extent at the moment but all internal issues seem to have been resolved.
Looking forward to the last push on to Base Camp tomorrow although early start may be an issue!

(Day 12) – 15th November 2011 – Tuesday
- Laboche to Gorreck Shep to Base Camp to Gorrek Shep.
6.36 It has been a very long day trekking today. We started at Loboche at 6.30. It was -7.5degc!! We had a slow cold start past the Khumbu Glacier my camelback froze in the back pack and everything was covered in ice. I was wearing thermals, trousers, wind proofs, Rab top and duvet with gloves, Buff and hat!!
We soon warmed up when the sun rose over the mountains and stripped off for the climb to Gorreck Shep. We arrived at 10.00 – only half hour late, the final team came in at about 11.00, we were then late leaving for EBC.
Bet had a chilli noodle soup to warm us up. We had a long slow walk up to EBC that was ½ hr longer than expected which meant we arrived at 2.30 so did not have a huge amount of time there.
We had all the obligatory photos on the rock, saw an avalanche – got it on film as well! Went for a pee and fell on my ass. It is harder than I though to walk on a glacier. At 3 we hoofed back in double quick time to ensure we got back before dark. We managed to all get in just in time but it was close. The rooms are freezing again so I think another uncomfortable night is in order. Just looking forward to getting into a decent bed and shower!!

(Day 13) 16th November 2011
- Gorreck Shep - Orsho
5.43 – We did not get to go to Kalla Pattor this morning because they decided it would be too much for us given the long walk here. I would have liked to do it given the choice but as it turned out the clouds were in and the views would have been rubbish.
We set off at 8.00 and it was well below freezing. The place has picked up considerably and we are walking at almost normal speed which makes such a difference.
We are all in a funny mood as we have achieved our goal and are on the way home. I am missing everyone like mad today.
By lunchtime the weather has closed in and by Loboche we are in a blizzard which continues all the way down to sunrise quest house.
There have been no views to speak of and it has just been a long days walk and it could have been anywhere!
This tea house is basic but generally warmer than the others. We have dropped 1000m in altitude so this has made a huge difference.

(Day 14) 17th November 2011
Orsho to Namche Bazar
8.51pm – Having a late night tonight! It’s Barry’s Birthday today so I have had a steak and chips followed by birthday cake. Come down from Orsho at double speed, started off slow but got bored and started to walk at high speed. The weather has been terrible again so no photos. Lunch at 3.15 so a little later than usual but noodle soup always appreciated!
1hr fast pace back to Nanche was good for only 3.5km. Arrived in Nanche at 5ish – the tea house feels so much nicer than before, given what we have stayed in – an absolute palace.
Went down to the bakery again and had apple pie and latte – very good as usual. Got back to the tea house at 7pm for steak and a huge pile of chips then Barry’s chocolate cake. Played Uno until the dizzy heights of 10! Wow a late night!

(Day 15) 18th November 2011
- Nanche Bazdar to Phakding
7.12 – Just had a fantastic water Buffalo curry in the local style with dhal – it was fantastic, it makes a change from the usual toast request!!
It was a long day today starting late from Nanche, hard walking all the way. I do not remember the majority of the end of the route today even though it was the same way as we came!
The countryside has changed enormously since the mountains, much more like the Alps. I am very relieved to get into the Tea House after a long day.

(Day 16) – 19th November 2011
- Phakding to Lukla
A short trek today through more stunning scenery. This section is much more enjoyable than at altitude. The weather has bee great today sunny and warm, a great end to the challenge.
We arrived in Lukla just after midday and had photos taken etc then onto the tea house.
We thanked the…and gave them the tips and scaves then had chicken burger and chips and a can of san Miguel. This is just what the doctor ordered!! After lunch we went to Starbucks and had coffee and black forest gateau and a sit in the sun.
We mooched around Lukla for a while but did not see any planes taking off of landing which was a shame.
Then to the bar below the tea house it was called the ‘wave pub’ it has been advertised all through the trek and was great. Beer was expensive but we had a good time until dinner at 7.
I had another great curry and Duncan’s York steak (I was quite drunk!!). The drinking went on until about 11.30ish!!

(Day 17) 20th November 2011
- Lukla to Kathmandu
A 4.30 alarm call, would have been unwelcome had it arrived, as it happens I woke at 4.52 anyway. We needed to muster for our flight at 5.00, I was still drunk!
Got there on time though, not sure how. We were on flights no 1 and 2. we got on the plane then off it again as Kathmandu was fog bound. I could have done with another few hours in bed really. We left at about 7 in the end and had a very uninteresting take off. Fantastic views of the Himalayas though.
Back at Kathmandu Guest House, we have got lucky again, the room is great. We had a much needed shower then went out shopping until 1.00.
For lunch I had a super chicken and jalapeño pizza at Road House, and then spent the rest of the afternoon mooching round the shops and getting pressies etc.
Out to a curry house tonight – ‘The Third Eye’ not sure that I will be drinking.

(Day 18) – 21st November 2011
- Free Day Kathmandu
Up early after a decent sleep, down to breakfast for 7.00 with the book. Nothing had really woken up by this point, just the odd hippy!
People started to emerge at about 8.00 so had another coffee and chat. Met with the others and went to Durbar Square.
We found the original rickshaw driver, not sure how he remembered us though. Super ride through the streets, great sounds, smell and near misses!
He tried to charge us 80,000 for the 3 rickshaws though – about £700!!
We settled on 1000 still far too much though.
Square was amazingly, very smelly and dirty but fantastic architecture and environment. We actually managed to see the female Buddha on one of her rare appearances. We decided to walk back.
I had lunch in the hotel before heading off to the Gurkha barracks.
A very interesting briefing from the base commander on the history and origins of the brigade. Then a very English ‘cup of tea’ and chat with some of the soldiers in the grounds.
Back to the hotel, quick shower and…..then off for a fantastic meal to celebrate the end of the trek.
I had steak with jacket potato, spaghetti and beans, odd but very good none the less. Then off for a couple of beers in ‘Tom and Jerry’.

(Day 19) – 22nd November 2011
- Kathmandu – Delhi – LHR
Early start for a 6.00 departure to the airport. They wanted us to sleep on the plane which was a little odd but never mind. I watched a couple of films and just chilled out a bit.
Back home to see the family at last, few what a trip!